You can use this sauce — spicy and fragrant and slightly syrupy, what the Italians call agrodolce — on veal chops as I call for here, or on pork chops, on steaks, on chicken. I bet it'd be good on grilled seitan or drizzled over tofu. The recipe is reminiscent of the cooking at red-sauce emporia like Bamonte's in Brooklyn, Rao's in Manhattan, Dominick's in the Bronx and, I hope, Carbone in Greenwich Village, where I first learned how to put it together at the elbow of the chef Mario Carbone. Serve with spaghetti dressed in butter and Parmesan, with garlic bread, with a spoon so you can slurp what's left on the plate. “It's a flavor that's purely Italian-American,” Carbone told me. “You won't find it in Italy, no way.”
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Sam Sifton | 2019-12-15
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