Handvo, a savory vegetable bread from the Indian state of Gujarat, is a near constant in the home of Anita Jaisinghani, the chef and owner of Pondicheri restaurant in Houston. Using hot water in the dough helps meld the flavors and hydrate the flours, as well as kickstart the leavening process. Ms. Jaisinghani makes many different versions — this carrot one is layered with the fragrance of toasted spices, the warmth of ginger and the freshness of herbs. Thanks to the pumpkin and sesame seeds that toast on top while it bakes, it also has an extra crunchy crust. The accompanying yogurt sauce is quickly — and deliciously — seasoned with aromatic spices tempered in oil. This is typically served as a snack, but is substantial enough to be a light meal when served with a salad. Rachel Wharton
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Rachel Wharton | 2021-04-21
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