Suzanne Goin, the chef and owner of a number of Los Angeles restaurants, published a recipe for this surprisingly light concoction of onions, rice, cream and Gruyere in her invaluable 2005 cookbook, "Sunday Suppers at Lucques." Years later, Mark Bittman and I served it as part of a feast menu we cooked up for the Sunday Times Magazine. It is a marvelous accompaniment to roast chicken. Sam Sifton
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Sam Sifton | 2012-12-16
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