On the North Atlantic coast of France, back in the day, this would be a meal made by fishermen, with whatever was left after selling the choice fish. This could mean very small soup fish or off cuts from trimming, maybe a few mussels, whatever they had. With a bottle of wine and a few herbs, they could quickly create a tasty fish stew. It became known as “la chaudrée,” so named for the iron pot it cooked in, called a chaudière. From France it went to Nova Scotia, and by the time it reached the East Coast it was called chowder. Still quite popular in France, most modern recipes call for four types of fish, a small cuttlefish and some kind of bivalve. This version simplifies things slightly, calling for firm rockfish, tender cod, mussels and squid. Crisp buttery croutons are de rigueur for many.
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Author
David Tanis | 2025-11-05
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