Salt-packed capers have become a growing presence in grocery stores. They tend to be larger than capers cured in vinegar and brine, more like the flower buds that they are, and pleasingly vegetal in flavor. When you fry them in olive oil, the oil intensifies their saltiness and turns their outer leaves into a crisp shell, creating delicious crunchy bits that can be used as both seasoning and texture. Here, they stud fillets of pan-roasted striped bass, but you could use any meaty white fish like cod or halibut. It's a bright and flavorful alternative to the usual weeknight fish dish, and it can be on the table in about a half hour.
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Author
Amanda Hesser | 2004-10-10
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